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Paul Tazewell, who wears a shimmering burgundy suit and oxblood loafers, poses for a portrait on green steps. Arranged on mannequins behind him are two distinctive costumes from the “Wicked” movie: Glinda’s pink bubble dress and Elphaba’s black ensemble and pointy hat.

Dressing for the Emerald City

To create the costumes for the new “Wicked” movie, the filmmakers turned to a Tony Award winner who already knew his way around Oz.

The costume designer Paul Tazewell with two of his creations on a Universal soundstage this month.Credit...Tracy Nguyen for The New York Times

Dressing for the Emerald City

To create the costumes for the new “Wicked” movie, the filmmakers turned to a Tony Award winner who already knew his way around Oz.

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Paul Tazewell was 16 years old and living in Akron, Ohio, the first time he designed costumes for “The Wiz.” It was a high school production, and much of the work happened in his family’s dining room.

He has been summoned back to Oz several times since that first show — a workshop here, an NBC broadcast there. So when the director Jon M. Chu asked him to design the costumes for Universal’s long-awaited film adaptation of the Broadway musical “Wicked,” there was little learning curve to speak of.

A prequel of sorts to “The Wizard of Oz,” “Wicked” centers on two reluctant roommates at Shiz University: Galinda, an effervescent daughter of privilege who goes on to drop a vowel (that first “a”), and Elphaba, a green-skinned outcast who goes on to pick up a title (the Wicked Witch of the West).

ImageA still from the “Wicked” movie showing Elphaba and Galinda in a cavelike dance hall surrounded by other oddly dressed revelers.
Cynthia Erivo as Elphaba and Ariana Grande as Galinda in “Wicked.” Because of “both Ari’s love and Cynthia’s love of clothing,” Mr. Tazewell said, “they understand very well what looks good on them.”Credit...Giles Keyte/Universal Pictures
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A meanspirited gift from her roommate, Elphaba’s pointy black hat is part of a stylistic lineage leading back to Adrian’s costumes for “The Wizard of Oz.”Credit...Lara Cornell/Universal Pictures
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A party dress that Galinda wears to the Ozdust Ballroom was inspired by a pink and yellow rose Mr. Tazewell spied in Regent’s Park, in London.Credit...Lara Cornell/Universal Pictures

By the time Ariana Grande and Cynthia Erivo were brought on board to play the film’s lead witches, Mr. Tazewell, 60, a Tony Award winner for his work on “Hamilton,” was already off to the races on his own preparations, collecting images of mushroom caps and bisected seashells for inspiration.


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